The Secret Side of Tuscany: Where Tourists Don’t Go
Porto Santo Stefano
Argentario is Tuscany’s best-kept secret
Though beloved by Italians, it remains largely undiscovered by international travelers. During four days of wandering Porto Santo Stefano and its surroundings, I didn’t hear a word of anything but Italian. This picturesque seaside peninsula offers golden sunsets best savored with a cocktail in hand, pristine beaches with rare stretches of sand, freshly caught seafood served at welcoming restaurants, and a relaxed, safe atmosphere that makes it the perfect escape.
Things to do in Argentario
Porto Santo Stefano: Explore Porto Santo Stefano, a vibrant seaside town full of charm and Italian character. Stroll along the waterfront, enjoy fresh seafood at local restaurants, and soak in the lively atmosphere of this hidden gem.
Relax on diverse beaches: Whether you prefer sandy stretches like Feniglia and Giannella, or pebbled coves like Cala del Gesso and Cala Piccola, Argentario offers beaches for every vibe. My favorites were Spiaggia del Pozzarello, Spiaggia La Cantoniera, and Spiaggia la Soda, which was 2 minutes away from my accommodation.
Hike or bike Monte Argentario’s peaks: Ascend to Punta Telegrafo or the Convento dei Passionisti for breathtaking panoramic views of the lagoon, coast, and lush landscape.
Drive or bike the scenic coastal road: The panoramic route from Porto Ercole to Porto Santo Stefano reveals some of the most stunning coastal vistas, whether by car or bike.
Explore Porto Ercole: Wander through Porto Ercole, steeped in history and coastal charm. Along the way, you’ll find artisanal gelato shops and charming little boutiques perfect for a leisurely browse.
Visit historic fortresses: Rising above the towns, Forte Stella, Forte Filippo, and the Spanish Fortress at Porto Santo Stefano offer sweeping views and a taste of the region’s military past.
Dive, snorkel, or try scuba: Discover the underwater world with diving or snorkeling tours. The “Try Dive” experience is perfect for beginners looking to explore beneath the waves.
Boat day trip to Giglio & Giannutri: Hop aboard a boat and visit Giglio with its medieval charm and pristine beaches, and Giannutri, beloved for snorkeling and marine life.
Attend the Palio Marinaro (mid-August): If you’re in town on August 15th, the energetic Palio Marinaro dell’Argentario is a historic rowing regatta between local districts, full of tradition and spectacle.
Rent a boat: If you’re feeling adventurous, you can rent a boat in Porto Santo Stefano or Porto Ercole for the day and explore the hidden beaches. Believe it or not, no boat license is needed for small vessels.
Spiaggia La Cantoniera
Places to eat & drink in Argentario
Il Tramonto Beach restaurant
Il Tramonto Beach restaurant (Giannella Beach): Enjoy fresh seafood and cocktails right on the sand as you watch the sunset at Giannella Beach. This was by far my favorite restaurant in Argentario.
La Roqqa: Sitting on the hillside above Porto Ercole, La Roqqa serves up delicious Tuscan dishes with amazing views. It’s the perfect spot to relax, enjoy good food, and take in the stunning scenery.
Ristorante Il Moletto (Porto Santo Stefano): A beloved oceanfront institution since 1955, perfect for classic seafood.
La Pinta (Porto Ercole): A local favorite offering timeless Italian dishes in a warm, inviting atmosphere.
Osteria dei Nobili Santi (Monte Argentario): A charming spot with fine regional dishes in a cozy, rustic setting.
Fontanina (San Pietro area near Porto Santo Stefano): Dishes crafted with ingredients from the restaurant’s own orchard, herb garden, and olive grove provide a genuine farm-to-table experience.
Need to know
Consider renting a car, taxis can be unpredictable, and having your own vehicle lets you hop between beaches at your own pace.
If you plan to visit the rocky beaches, bring water shoes, as entering the water can be slippery, uncomfortable, and a bit challenging without them.
And don’t forget to pack plenty of sunscreen, the Tuscan sun is strong and will be shining!